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Re: Hull Number
OliviaOlivia 18 Feb 2017 23:17
in discussion Forums / News & Discussions » Hull Number

Hi
First to narrow slightly the search, have a look in the design of the cockpit and compare it to the third photo on the picture page. First boats built around 67 were like that: There is a step by the companionway and the post for the main sheet is low and made of grp. These first boat don't have a plaque like the one built by sanderson later on.
Come back if you want more but itsvery unlikely you ll find a definitive proof without a plaque or original sail.
Fair wind
Olivia

Re: Hull Number by OliviaOlivia, 18 Feb 2017 23:17

my bad. the sail number is GD80. as i'm having new sails made for her birthday, could someone post the logo if there are no copyright issues? i'd like to use it as a class emblem, especially if i can verify the hull number.

Re: Hull Number by shearwatershearwater, 07 Feb 2017 19:18

Hi Jan, Jim

i agree there is already a post about hull numbers. but i think Jim's question relates to mine, is does anyone have any pictures of their hull number inside the transom? Olivia? there's a reference to finding it "hand written", so far i haven't found it on Shearwater, who has a sail numbered 180, but USCG documentation build year 1967.

Re: Hull Number by shearwatershearwater, 07 Feb 2017 19:07
Re: Hull Number
JankaadJankaad 07 Feb 2017 16:18
in discussion Forums / News & Discussions » Hull Number

Hello Jim

Try look down the tread and then you find - Hull number and building year? and be wise.

Jan

Re: Hull Number by JankaadJankaad, 07 Feb 2017 16:18
Hull Number
Jim ScudderJim Scudder 01 Feb 2017 08:09
in discussion Forums / News & Discussions » Hull Number

Where should I look for the Hull No.? I want to look up the history of the boat.
Thanks

Hull Number by Jim ScudderJim Scudder, 01 Feb 2017 08:09

Jeg ville have lagt billeder ud på forum ……. men jeg har ikke kendskab til denne platform!

Re: Rudder by Kim Haslund AndersenKim Haslund Andersen, 27 Jun 2015 18:43
Rudder
Kim Haslund AndersenKim Haslund Andersen 27 Jun 2015 18:37
in discussion Forums / Gear & Maintenance » Rudder

Cracks in rudder and repair.

Rudder by Kim Haslund AndersenKim Haslund Andersen, 27 Jun 2015 18:37

yes. Shearwater's was shortened in the aft dimension, i believe. it wasn't glassed in place (any more?) i did find a little sludge this spring whilst investigating the source of the diesel film in the bilge, but happily no water!

Re: New Fuel Tank by shearwatershearwater, 15 Jun 2015 20:00

Are all having the tank in the same place as Nepenthe, in the port cockpit locker out towards the hull?

Re: New Fuel Tank by AkkeBAkkeB, 15 Jun 2015 19:53

I did replace the old winches with Harken 39.2 ST three years ago and I haven't watched back since. Initially, I bought the 42.2 but went back to the shop almost immediately, deeming the 42 as too powerful for the old lady. The diameter of the winch base is the same for both variants and fits in beautifully on the old pedestal. The only tricky part is that you have to redrill the holes for the mounting bolts in the pedestal. All the holes ended up more than one diameter from any old hole. Drilling in thick stainless steel just takes low speed, high pressure, a sharp drill, patience and copious amounts of cooling fluid. Never ever let any point get hotter than a couple of hundred degrees centigrade or you will have a local hard spot that no drill known to man can get through and as a byproduct of that, a hole a long way from where you intended. A4 steel is in itself not much harder than ordinary carbon steel but let it become martensite and it's more grinding than drilling. Anyone interested in the old winches? The pallet springs in the hub have to be replaced and the winch hub could be replated. Just the metal value might have paid for the new winches. Heavy beasts but no corrosion anywhere.

Re: New Fuel Tank by AkkeBAkkeB, 15 Jun 2015 19:40

I kept getting soft black balls and clumps in the diesel when I drained the separator under the tank. All the flushing I tried didn't work.The answer was to cut an access hole in the top of the tank though the fibreglass, and replace with a circular plastic removable fitting. The tank could then be accessed from the cockpit, cleaned and steam cleaned, and that plastic entry fitting screwed back.
There was loads of sludge in the tank, - diesel bug. The filters could easily have been overwhelmed and the injectors blocked.
I didn't fancy the job of replacing the tank as it's bonded in.

Re: New Fuel Tank by Mike ArnoldMike Arnold, 13 Jun 2015 12:25

Hi there,

I have added an excerpt of the September 2004 issue of Træfpunkt. which is the magazine of a danish ocean cruising association.
The article is about Peter Mathiessen, who previously owned Stella (#193) and sailed her single handed from New Zealand to the Falklands in 1992.
Please find the article under the following link: [http://gd28.wikidot.com/local--files/stella/Stella-Kap-Horn.pdf]

The article is written in Danish, but maybe Ole will find some time in the future and translate it for the English speaking folks.

Cheers and a great sailing season 2015!
Christian

Wishing everyone a happy new sailing year 2015. 2014 was a wonderful year meeting a lot of 'new' Great Danes out there. And thanks to webmasters Christian and John for keeping the site floating and updated. Fair winds, Ole, Brise II

Re: Merry Christmas by Ole RostedOle Rosted, 28 Dec 2014 11:17

Much appreciated. And happy holidays with best wishes for smooth sailing in the new year.

Tony and Kristen from Ishmael

Re: Merry Christmas by Anthony BarbagalloAnthony Barbagallo, 26 Dec 2014 05:00

We wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year
Beate and Jürgen from MAGRATHEA

Re: Merry Christmas by Juergen IllersJuergen Illers, 25 Dec 2014 15:45

I've utilised all those spaces mentioned. Also, screwed thin plywood sheets behind each set of drawers beneath the dinette table to stop goods fouling the drawer operation. Screw into the end grain of the drawer runners. If cans are stored there I put a mat of cheap closed-cell foam against the inside of the hull to stop abrasion - as a cushion. For behind the battery, I would like another separator - foam mat might do - to avoid stuff colliding & shorting the battery. The companionway hatch - 'garage' roof, on deck - is another area to stow stuff externally —- a liferaft? The previous owner built 'seats' / platforms : one suspended across the pulpit. Another platform above the tiller/transon. A tubular steel gantry above the transom would be advantageous for solar panels, radar, etc. As said, adding to the weight is a problem.

Hello Callum, Thankyou for your reply & advice re mast inversion. I will certainly follow it up. I'll stick a photo of the foot on the site but I suspect it's in the correct position. I presume that there is only one bolt hole to secure mast to step. The rigger asked the yard lad, who'd lowered & fitted the mast, if there were two bolt holes & did he get the right one. The lad said that he thought he only saw one. Certainly, minute abrasion wear on the step indicates that the correct position was found.

Earlier that week, the rigger had replaced the old forestay with a new one. Hope that he did a proper job, there, too.

Another indication of something (?) is that I find the tiller pretty 'heavy'. So much so that I feel I ought to get a new tiller which is at least 6 inches longer to give greater leverage.

Finally, when I mentioned the rigger's advice, when I later spoke to a local boat builder, he gave a wry smile —- that spoke volumes!

Again, many thanks,

Rick

Hello Rick,
Is the rigger really reputable, by a fair number of yachtsmen? Did he follow up by telling you he could supply new rigging to 'fix the problem'
It is difficult to say without seeing the rigging, but it looks to me as if the the forward lowers need tightened after loosening off the aft lowers, this will give you positive pre-bend.
Is the mast sitting in the correct position at the mast foot? It could be sitting to far aft, this is multi positional, at least it is on Red Dane. Also, the forestay is also on a multi positional fitting, it could be attached to it in a forward position
As for the 'old wheel which drew the stays together, I wish I had one. Did he give the tensioner back to you? I would hope so as they are pretty expensive bits of kit and good too.
I do my own rig tuning and do it for several other boats at my club. Some sailors think that it is a very complicated and mystical black art, in reality it is a very simple operation. Here is a link to an extremely good and easy to follow book.

http://www.riggingandsails.com/pdf/selden-tuning.pdf

Callum

Like Juergen I have just chain and a heavy anchor (and a saw!). I have a locker.
I also keep a kedge in case I go aground.
All seems good.
Mike Arnold
FIDDLER
Uk

Re: Anchor cable length by Mike ArnoldMike Arnold, 18 Sep 2014 08:13

Thanks Christian and thanks Juergen, for your comments. I've found some information on the internet and, in the light of this, have made some adjustments. Interesting note that not all GD's have anchor lockers. Many thanks again,
Richard

Re: Anchor cable length by R1ckR1ck, 17 Sep 2014 20:00
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