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Re: Compass
red danered dane 23 Dec 2018 15:03
in discussion Forums / Gear & Maintenance » Compass

Hello Ralf,
I have the same thing on my 'to do' list, it looks to be a fairly easy job. I have already bought a 'top reading' Suunto compass, got it on ebay at a very low price and in a beautiful condition.
I don't know anything of the original compass.

Re: Compass by red danered dane, 23 Dec 2018 15:03

I was considering not altering the fibreglass and extending the coaming beyond the rear piece as I thought it looked very pleasing to the eye. I knew there would be a problem with water collecting there, I was going to overcome that by drilling mouse holes at the junction on the extended part, this is not perfect but would really improve the drainage, and it could be done retrospectively.

Re: Cockpit coaming by red danered dane, 19 Aug 2018 18:03


Looks fantastic! My father made a similar repair after Shearwater was beached during a hurricane which somehow breached our very well protected anchorage.

His solution was similar to yours, except he didn't change the fibreglass, and the sides of the coaming extend past the end piece. No issues with opening the hatches, but water is always collecting in the end. i'm contemplating how to correct that issue.

I really do need to post some pictures now that she's into her second half century of sailing, especially as more of us might be having this problem.

Your Mahogany is magnificent! Ours came from an old piano top that came with our house, but lacks the great figuring of your pieces.

Cheers, Tom Lok, chicago

Re: Cockpit coaming by shearwatershearwater, 15 Aug 2018 18:58
Ralf BeutingRalf Beuting 15 Aug 2018 10:08
in discussion Forums / Gear & Maintenance » Compass

Dear all, unfortunately my GD28 didn't have it's compass anymore wich was accommodated at the center of the cockpit, at the top of the support columns which holds the main sail. Can anybody share any information about the type/make of this original compass? And maybe where to find one or a suitable replacement?
Many thanks in advance, Ralf

Compass by Ralf BeutingRalf Beuting, 15 Aug 2018 10:08


Red Dane needed a new coaming for some time… It was totally rotten and made of plywood. To fit in, the back 2 rounded corners were an issue and had always been a problem, not allowing to lift the lids of the back lockers properly. I therefore decided to modify and cut to form square corners. I strongly hesitated before starting because of the change to the overall look. To my surprise, the result was great and I think it looks even better.

To explain, after removing the old coaming and screws, I cut the round corners square with an angle grinder. I couldn't believe how thick the fiberglass was in this area. I then built a form made of plywood which I placed under and behind the new square holes. I used epoxy and chopped strands to form the new corner.

It took some thinking to cut the new wood in order to take into account the compound angles and the back of the 3 boards are rebated below deck level. That allowed the coaming to sit on the deck as well as the sides of the cockpit.

The new coaming is made of an old mahogany, I was told probably Cuban and shows the most beautiful complex grain. I've used danish oil to feed and protect. 9 coats to date. Varnish is my favourite finish on a nice piece of wood but the Scottish elements are a nightmare to keep it nice.

To see the job and end result go on Red Dane

Don't hesitate to contact me if you're planning the same and need some more info. I'm also on the facebook group


Cockpit coaming by red danered dane, 18 Jul 2018 15:03

Sorry I can't provide you with a set of spreader but please notice that it is unfortunately very commun for Selden not helping and telling you need a new mast when you contact them. Better $$$ for them!!! Of course then should be able to deliver aluminium speaders but…If you got the money it is easy to follow them. To make it cheaper they offer you a thinner mast with 2 pairs of speader… With that generally comes also the time for a new sail… Try to contact a mast rigger to find alternatives.

Re: Spreaders lost by OliviaOlivia, 07 Jul 2018 13:23

Selden couldn't help and the spreaders haven't resurfaced. We are now in talks with mast builders to find a solution.

Before we contract anyone I would like to ask if anyone here in the forum has the original spreaders and doesn't need them anymore. We are happy to pay for them! Even the whole rigg, if you don't wish to sell them separately.

Kind regards from Kiel!

Re: Spreaders lost by Sir TobySir Toby, 06 Jul 2018 08:20

Wow, that was quick! Thank you very much, Old Salt!

I will talk to Selden, hopefully that's all the measures they need.

Best wishes from Germany!

Re: Spreaders lost by Sir TobySir Toby, 18 May 2018 08:54


The spreaders are 38-1/4" long and 3-1/2" wide at the base.

Re: Spreaders lost by old saltold salt, 17 May 2018 22:20

Hello everyone!

Unfortunately, we lost our spreaders during the last winter. We still have the original gold anodised aluminum mast, so it doesn't have a number engraved yet. Can anyone tell us the dimension of the original spreaders, please? Selden needs them to check their storage and in the worst case order a new part from Sweden.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Spreaders lost by Sir TobySir Toby, 17 May 2018 07:21
Re: 3D model
OliviaOlivia 27 Nov 2017 12:09
in discussion Forums / News & Discussions » 3D model

Hello Philippe,
The link is working after removing the empty space and pasting into the URL adress

Re: 3D model by OliviaOlivia, 27 Nov 2017 12:09
Re: 3D model
tchiwamtchiwam 09 Nov 2017 02:04
in discussion Forums / News & Discussions » 3D model

I guess I need to post to get karma to upload pictures :)

Anyway this is try #2
Nope, low karma thing does it :D

I'll do it later. I know of 2 layouts, and I plan on making both in the same drawing, that is if the hull is the same.
I am now durious about the 3rd layout…

Re: 3D model by tchiwamtchiwam, 09 Nov 2017 02:04

Oh yeah! Another Blender user!!!

Just in case, my boat is for sale, so you can measure it to your heart's content. ;-)

Joking aside, it is worth mentioning that there are three(as far as I know) different interior layouts. The original ones had a dinette configuration and later there was the more "traditional" bunk layout.

In term of space, it was one of the beamier boats for it's length when it was designed (note it was designed from inside out, meaning the hull was drawn after the interior).
Now, she looks quite skinny compared to the modern boats.

BTW, I couldn't see your screenshot.

John D Willimann

Re: 3D model by John D WillimannJohn D Willimann, 08 Nov 2017 10:30
3D model
tchiwamtchiwam 03 Nov 2017 22:35
in discussion Forums / News & Discussions » 3D model

Hello everyone,

I am planing to buy a GD28. In the mean time, I have created a 3D model using blender (free software), since I wanted to get a feel of the space inside.
I have use most if not all of the drawings available from this site. Even if I do not buy the GD28 I think this may prove useful or at least nice for any owner or previous owner.

I plan on leaving this file to, so others could make changes freely.

I am more than happy to check photos with measurement references to improve this model too, and correct my mistakes, remember this is a rough draft.

I can also generate the file to be use with a 3D printer in order to get a model of the GD28.

Here's a link to a current screenshot

https: // / LugRePPDq6lwg3mt1


3D model by tchiwamtchiwam, 03 Nov 2017 22:35
Re: Rudder
grynnergrynner 22 Jun 2017 11:46
in discussion Forums / Gear & Maintenance » Rudder

I have ruddercracks through both of the two upper hinge cutouts.
It appers that there are hollow sections in the rudder at those two locations.
Is that a known defect or have I just been unlucky?
Kind regards, Jan.

PS. As the middle hinge is below the waterline I intend fill the inside with a twocomponent polyether foam before I seal the surface cracks.

Re: Rudder by grynnergrynner, 22 Jun 2017 11:46

Please visit the brand new facebookgroup called "Great Dane 28".

Hello, Ralf

here in the states, holding tanks are required. On the great lakes, it is forbidden to have the capability to pump overboard. as i still have my blue water registration, i'm able to have that capacity if it is sealed shut.

I have a two position Y valve, which either pumps overboard (forbidden) or into a plastic holding tank under the Vee berth. this is emptied via a deck fitting labeled "waste." I assumed, since all my matching deck fittings are in English and German, that they were original to the boat. the waste is vacuumed out at a pump-out station, free of charge in all the harbors I know of. don't forget the vent line to release foul gasses topsides!

this is a page from a US distributor. i have a rigid tank; i have crewed on boats with flexible tanks, where the solids are "massaged" and helped out of the tank during pumpout.

(apparently i can't post a link., plumbing, water/waste holding tanks and fittings)

hope this helps. the plumbing of the hoses is the hardest part, since our head compartments are so small.

Re: sewage/faecis tank by shearwatershearwater, 23 May 2017 16:18

Dear All,
very recently I bought a GD28 that I will sail mainly on a lake (Wannsse/Berlin/Germany).
Waste water obviously is not welcome in the lake therefore I am looking for a solution to nevertheless be able to use the toilet. The boat I have still has the original (or nearly original) toilet layout, flushing everything outboards. Does anybody have experience with fitting a tank somewhere? I imagine this being nicer than a chem-toilet? Thanks for anything! Ralf
PS: as soon as we figured out a new boat name and have the register number and so on I'll post our whereabouts…

sewage/faecis tank by Ralf BeutingRalf Beuting, 23 May 2017 10:41
Re: Hull Number
OliviaOlivia 18 Feb 2017 23:17
in discussion Forums / News & Discussions » Hull Number

First to narrow slightly the search, have a look in the design of the cockpit and compare it to the third photo on the picture page. First boats built around 67 were like that: There is a step by the companionway and the post for the main sheet is low and made of grp. These first boat don't have a plaque like the one built by sanderson later on.
Come back if you want more but itsvery unlikely you ll find a definitive proof without a plaque or original sail.
Fair wind

Re: Hull Number by OliviaOlivia, 18 Feb 2017 23:17

my bad. the sail number is GD80. as i'm having new sails made for her birthday, could someone post the logo if there are no copyright issues? i'd like to use it as a class emblem, especially if i can verify the hull number.

Re: Hull Number by shearwatershearwater, 07 Feb 2017 19:18
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